“Which haircut would suit me?” is one of the questions we hear most often in the salon. Face shape really does help answer it, but it isn’t a list of rules. A good haircut comes down to three things: your features, your hair type and how much time you’re willing to spend styling. Let’s start with face shape.

How to find out your face shape

Pull your hair back and stand in front of a mirror in even light. There are two easy ways to do it:

  • Trace the outline. Using a washable marker or lipstick, trace the outline of your face on the mirror — from the hairline to the chin — and see what shape it resembles.
  • Compare the widths. By eye (or with a tape measure), compare the width of your forehead, cheekbones and jawline, then compare the length of your face with its width.

If your face doesn’t fit neatly into any one shape, that’s perfectly normal. Most people are a mix. In that case, go by the one or two features that stand out most: a wide jaw, a high forehead, prominent cheekbones.

Diagram of six face shapes: oval, round, square, heart, oblong and diamond
Left to right: oval, round, square, heart, oblong and diamond. The dotted lines mark the forehead, cheekbones and jaw.

The best haircuts for each face shape

Oval face

The face is slightly longer than it is wide, the cheekbones are the widest point and the chin tapers gently. This is the most versatile shape: any limits come from your hair type rather than your face. You can choose whatever you’re in the mood for, from a short crop to long layers.

Round face

Width and length are almost equal, and the lines are soft. Vertical lines usually work well: a long bob that falls below the chin, long layers, a side-swept fringe, a side parting, asymmetry. Go easy on volume at the sides, and be careful with cuts that end right at cheekbone level: that length makes the face look wider.

Hairdresser trimming the ends of hair with scissors
A good hairdresser looks not only at your features but at how your particular hair falls.

Square face

The forehead, cheekbones and jaw are roughly the same width, with a defined jaw angle. Soft layers, waves, a graduated (stacked) bob, a curtain fringe with a centre parting and a side parting all soften the angles. A sharp, blunt cut right at jaw level, on the other hand, will emphasise them.

Heart face

A wide forehead and cheekbones with a narrow chin. The aim is to balance the top and bottom: a bob at or just below the chin, volume and layers in the lower half, a long side-swept or curtain fringe that partly covers the forehead.

Chin-length bob with soft movement, seen from behind
A chin-length bob is one of the most versatile cuts, but even a bob is tailored to your face and hair.

Oblong face

The face is noticeably longer than it is wide. Lengths between the chin and the shoulders, waves, volume at the sides and a straight or curtain fringe all add width and visually “shorten” the face. Very long straight hair and lots of height at the crown, by contrast, make it look even longer.

Diamond face

The cheekbones are the widest point, with a narrower forehead and chin. Face-framing pieces and layers around the cheekbones soften them, as do a curtain fringe and a chin-length bob, which adds volume to the lower part of the face.

More important than face shape: your hair and your lifestyle

The same cut looks different on different hair, so the second thing to consider is hair type:

  • Fine hair looks thicker with a solid, blunt line and only a few layers.
  • Thick hair needs some weight carefully taken out, or the cut will puff out at the sides.
  • Wavy and curly hair is cut with the curl pattern in mind, often dry: when wet, curls are stretched out and spring up shorter once dry.
  • Cowlicks — spots where the hair grows in its own swirl, usually at the hairline and the crown — can decide whether a fringe lies flat or sticks up.

The third consideration is your daily routine. Five minutes to get ready or half an hour with a hairdryer — each calls for a different cut. Short styles need trimming more often, while long layers hold their shape for longer.

In Lisbon, it’s also worth allowing for the humidity and the Atlantic wind: if your hair tends to frizz, sleek cuts with sharp lines will take more time to style.

Other things count too: glasses, the length of your neck, the features you want to play up. So face-shape advice is a starting point, not a rulebook.

What to tell your hairdresser

  • Bring 2–3 photos of cuts you like, and one of what you don’t want.
  • Say how much time you’re willing to spend on styling and how often you’d like to have it cut.
  • Explain what you don’t like about your current cut.
  • Ask how the cut will look in a month or two, once it’s grown out a bit.
  • If you’re thinking about a fringe, read “Will a fringe suit you? How to tell before you cut”.

A haircut at Persona starts with a consultation: your hairdresser will look at your features, your hair’s texture and how it grows, and suggest options that fit your routine. Women’s haircut — 70 € (about 2 h), fringe trim — 25 €. You can book online; all our services are on the Hair page.